ManoramaOnline | Kerala Piravi

VANISHING ACT
An aerial view of TVPM shot 60 years ago, when Kerala did not even have half of its current population.
FIRST LETTER
Kerala’s fame as a totally literate state is built on a culture that lays the emphasis on language.
PAYBACK
Mushrooming old-age homes across Kerala tell the story of the state’s changing sensibilities.
SOLITARY CONFINEMENT
As the state grew, we shrank into ourselves.
REIGN OF REFUSE
In less than the span of a generation, littering has become a habit that refuse to die.
HOW CLEAN WAS MY CITY
Looking at a photograph of vintage TVPM in the 1970s, you cannot but feel envious.
CHRONICLER OF THE RAIN
People dread a time when the nostalgic charm of the rains would be relegated to the realm of rhymes.
SOARING ABOVE THE GLASS CEILING
A 17-year-old girl student created a history of sorts when she flew a glider over TVPM.
WHO’S A MIGRANT
The influx of migrant laborers from north and east India reminds Malayali of his own sojourns to the Gulf.
MOSQUITO COAST
Mosquitoes have become a nagging adversary, a public health threat and enemy No. 1, in short.
THE RIVER THAT WAS
The Bharatapuzha river that has once been the lifeline of Kerala is on its last lap.
DAMMED EMOTIONS
The 120-year-old Mullaperiyar dam has now turned a bone of contention between Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
THE TRICKY TRADEOFF
Shopping malls offer everything from food and apparels to movies and gaming. Is that all to it?
PALACE OF FANTASY
The black/white classics have been restored but the modest halls where they were first beamed had been condemned to oblivion.
THE DINO WHO POSTED LETTERS
When exactly was the last time you poured your heart into a blue letter card that vanishes into the darkness inside a red letterbox.
SO FAR, SO NEAR
Mobile phones have changed the species in drastic ways.
PLACE IN THE SUN
From hot to hotter and beyond. Kerala is recording unprecedented temperature levels in summer.
BITTEN BY TRAVELBUG
When the world comes to Kerala, lured by its mighty mountains and breezy beaches, Keralites are going to the world.
BACCHUS’ OWN STATE
Various govts have tried out several measures to curb alcoholism in the state, but to no avail.
SHUTDOWN & HAPPY ABOUT IT
People of Kerala have long attuned themselves to frequent bandhs and hartals.
EXERCISING CAUTION
From early morning walks to a quick workout sessions to laughing sessions, every fad catches up in Kerala fast
BRO!
The days of the Hippies are long gone. The new outliers call each other, 'Bro'.
ART ATTACK
India’s first biennale was held in Kochi from December 2012 to March 2013, that attracted layman and critics in droves.
PAST IS PRESENT
Not everything goes out of fashion - grandfather umbrellas and wooden slippers are here.
DESIGNED TO KILL
Criminal gangs thrived along with cunning businessmen who employed any means to further their gains.
MILKMAN TO MILMA
Dairy production is falling in Kerala but milk consumption is on the rise.
THE GRAND MALLU WEDDING
In this era, when Keralites spend lakhs of rupees on wedding sari and photo sessions, can anyone imagine such an 'invitation card'?
MASTER AT WORK
Malayalam cinema has glided to the days of drone cameras but maestros and their oeuvre stand tall.
STAGING CULTURE
The art forms in Kerala are limited to temple festivals and school/college art festivals.
WELLNESS TOURISM
People from around the world flock to Kerala to experience the rejuvenating therapies passed on from generation to generation.
BREAKING WAVES
The fun-filled regatta is taken too seriously by the participating teams and their loyal fans.
HALF A TIGER
Every Onam, hordes of tigers descend on Thrissur. This curious tradition goes back 200 years.
ARTERIES OF COMMERCE
Long long ago, lakes and canals were the lifelines of Kerala. Houseboats carried rice bags and other cargo across the length and breadth of the state.
PAINTING THE SKY
The mother of all Poorams unfurl in Thrissur. The fireworks that last all night lure in visitors from all over the world.
SARTORIAL LOYALTY
Fashion-conscious Malayalis respond to every trend on the globe but they have never really moved on from the good old 'mundu' and 'kasavu sari'.
THE ABANDONED KITCHEN
If you have heard your father reminiscing the taste of the chutney made by his mother, you are actually looking at the keystone to that mystery recipe.
TEMPLE OF TECHNOLOGY
Technopark TVPM has been standing tall for 25 years as the beacon of Kerala’s achievements in information technology.
DUEL OF THE DAY
Televised debates have become staple diet in Kerala’s public space.
THE BEST BIRIYANI
No trip to Kozhikode is complete without relishing the nuances of the famed Malabar biriyani.
TOXIC RAIN
Several villages of Kasaragod district are still bearing the scars of an outrageous agricultural practice - use of endosulfan.
THE FADING GREENS
Keralites don't seem to be so keen on protecting the evergreen fauna of this land.
CHEWING ON MEMORIES
An evening gossip session in progress, accompanied by the traditional triumvirate of tobacco, lime and arecanut on a betel leaf.
ELEPHANTINE EXCITEMENT
If there is anything more dangerous than the caparisoned elephants on a festival ground, it is the fireworks.
DOG DAYS
Dog catchers are much sought after in Kerala these days as stray canines suddenly tore their way into newspaper headlines.
OVER A CUP OF COFFEE
The Indian Coffee House at Shankumugham in its glorious days.
THE POROTTA SYNDROME
The layered delicacy has become more common than the modest and more healthy items such as 'puttu' and 'idli'.
SLICE OF LIFE
Agrarian economy’s descent started in Kerala long ago. Even the transition from bullocks to tractors has not helped.
NOT IN CURRENCY
Once valued, these coins have become a collector’s item. The extinction of coins is in proportion to inflation rate.
GENIE IN A BOOK
Over the years, libraries have become quieter even though book sales are rising.
FRAME THE STAR
Everyone wants a slice of their favorite star. People do not see through their eyes any more.
CYCLE OF CHANGE
A middle-class family in Kerala can’t live without a car, or at least a motorcycle. The ordinary bicycle is extinct.
THE STATE CARRIER
The KSRTC may be in a financial crunch, but people still wait for it on numerous routes in Kerala.
YOU BUY IT?
Today’s consumers have a hard time choosing the wheat from the chaff as astroturfing and other trends catch on.
OLD HABITS DIE HARD
Newspapers are on the way out across the globe but not in Kerala.
VOICES FROM THE AIR
The All India Radio kept us company before TV became a permanent fixture in the living rooms.
PICKLED IN TIME
An artifact at the Padmanabhapuram Palace. The jar was used to pickle mangoes in brine.
ILL OMENS
Diseases have suddenly become a talking point in Kerala. From common cold to cancer, diseases are everywhere.
BUILT ON NOSTALGIA
The tradition of building inner courtyards for houses is back after a generation decided to skip it.
IN POLITICS WE TRUST
Whatever be the color of the flag, the people of Kerala are united in their obsession with politics.
FUTURE OF TECHNOLOGY
Children are not intimidated by the smartphones the way their parents were.

VANISHING ACT

An aerial view of Thiruvananthapuram shot 60 years ago, when Kerala did not even have half of its current population. Kerala’s population was 1.35 crore as per the 1951 census. Now it stands at 3.3 crore. Buildings have filled the landscape, leaving the greenery to memories and photographs.
FIRST LETTER

A child’s initiation to the world of letters. Kerala’s fame as a totally literate state is built on a culture that lays the emphasis on language. Language is worshiped, whether it is written on palm fronds or paper or tablets.
PAYBACK

Mushrooming old-age homes across Kerala tell the story of the state’s changing sensibilities. Old age is not revered any more. Aged parents have become a liability to be dispensed with. Many of them are escorted out of home by their own children, to be left alone in remote street corners like an abandoned kitten.
SOLITARY CONFINEMENT

Not long ago, we could crash into a neighbor’s house, share a meal with him, crack a joke with her over the steps, and even overhear them quarreling. The walls have become taller and hearts harder. As the city grew, we shrank to ourselves. You wouldn’t know your neighbor’s name. Do you?
REIGN OF REFUSE

Cleanliness has always been the hallmark of the life of a Malayali, who wouldn’t start a day without a dip or wear anything but immaculate white. Really? How come the streets are so dirty and canals choked to death? In less than the span of a generation, littering has become a habit that refuse to die.
HOW CLEAN WAS MY CITY

Looking at a photograph of vintage Thiruvananthapuram in the 1970s, you cannot but feel envious. Unless you are not someone who doesn’t have to trudge through the capital city’s current roads daily, fighting off deadly drivers and taking in all the smoke and dust.
CHRONICLER OF THE RAIN

Rain had never been a luxury for someone living in Kerala. The advent of the monsoon was as accurate as school opening, but more welcome. The rendezvous has become erratic and irregular these days. People dread a time when the nostalgic charm of the rains would be relegated to the realm of rhymes. A photograph shot by Victor George, before he went with the rain.
SOARING ABOVE THE GLASS CEILING

The year was 1984. Sheela Ramani was sweet 17. The Women’s College student created a history of sorts when she flew a glider over Thiruvananthapuram. She had undergone two months’ special training to achieve the rare feet.
WHO’S A MIGRANT

The influx of 'Bengalis' – which has become a generic term for all migrant laborers from north and east India – reminds Malayali of his own sojourns. Hordes of people from Kerala have found the arid lands of West Asia an oasis in the oppressive unemployment of the 1980s. Many a career were made in the Gulf countries. And many a tear shed for the dear ones waiting across the sea.
MOSQUITO COAST

The battle starts every night. Armed with squats and electric rackets, residents close the door against the intruder, carefully sealing any crack or hole. Mosquitoes have become a nagging adversary, a public health threat and enemy No. 1, in short.
THE RIVER THAT WAS

The Bharatapuzha River inspired imagination. Bards sang about it. The river that has once been the lifeline of Kerala is on its last lap. Huge swathes of sandbars greet the eye that instinctively turn to look at the legendary river. When a good monsoon fills the river, it swells and strikes back at all signs of civilization with a vengeance.
DAMMED EMOTIONS

The Mullaperiyar dam has been taming the Periyar River for about 120 years. The British-era dam has now turned a bone of contention between Kerala and Tamil Nadu. While voices are raised in Kerala to replace the leaky dam with a new structure, farmer groups in Tamil Nadu fear they might lose rights over the interstate river.
THE TRICKY TRADEOFF

Remember how Sunday outings used to be. The street corner shop that sold peppermint has become extinct while we migrated to the air-conditioned palaces of consumerism. Shopping malls offer everything from food and apparels to movies and gaming. Is that all to it?
PALACE OF FANTASY

The black/white classics have been restored but the modest halls where they were first beamed had been condemned to oblivion. The good old 'kottaka' where dozens of bodies perspired in their common love of cinema has given way to cozy multiplexes.
THE DINO WHO POSTED LETTERS

When exactly did we start calling the real mail snail mail? When exactly was the last time you poured your heart into a blue letter card that vanishes into the darkness inside a red letterbox. Speak of inlands in the age of WhatsApp at your risk. Your memories will make you a dinosaur.
SO FAR, SO NEAR

A day without a mobile phone can test your endurance. Mobile phones have changed the species in drastic ways. Bent over the phone and fingers furiously swiping across the screen, the new species finds even food and love on it.
PLACE IN THE SUN

From hot to hotter and beyond. Kerala is recording unprecedented temperature levels in summer. And summer, in a way, extends from rain to rain. Who’s responsible?
BITTEN BY TRAVELBUG

No destination is long enough when the traveler has woken up. When the world comes to Kerala, lured in by its mighty mountains and breezy beaches, Keralites are going to the world. From carefully packaged tour plans to impulsive one-day picnics, the idea of holidays is changing.
BACCHUS’ OWN COUNTRY

The serpentine queues in front of the liquor outlets will tell you that you are in Kerala. Various governments have tried out several measures to curb alcoholism in the state. The country liquor was banned. Taxes were raised manifold to make the liquor prohibitively costly. Even the bars were closed down. Still, the liters sold went on breaking records after records.
SHUTDOWN AND HAPPY ABOUT IT

When everything shut downs around you, what would you do? Well, make the most of it. People of Kerala have long attuned themselves to frequent bandhs and hartals.
EXERCISING CAUTION

A gym in Alappuzha in 1989. The fitness regimen has undergone the usual transformations. From early morning walks to a quick workout sessions to laughing sessions, every fad catches up in Kerala fast. Plagued by lifestyle diseases, society has taken exercise seriously.
BRO!

The days of the Hippies are long gone. The new outliers call each other, 'Bro'. Long hair, colorful dresses and an I-don’t-care attitude mark the youngsters who refuse to fall into the moulds set by society.
ART ATTACK

India’s first biennale was held in Kochi from December 12, 2012 to March 17, 2013. The event energized artists and the art appreciation scene in Kerala by exposing even the layman to various creative streams from around the world. Common man jostled with critics to have a look at the installations.
PAST IS PRESENT

Not everything goes out of fashion. Grandfather umbrellas and wooden slippers have become essential accessories with a little makeover.
DESIGNED TO KILL

A collection of weapons exhibited by the police after busting a gang of hired goons. Kerala’s sudden prosperity came with a price. Criminal gangs thrived along with cunning businessmen who employed any means to further their gains.
MILKMAN TO MILMA

Dairy production is falling in Kerala but milk consumption is on the rise. The curious contradiction has become a pattern in the consumer state. The neighborhood milkman no longer visits us every morning on his bicycle but we get a steady supply of packed milk from a plethora of companies, which mostly source the milk from dairy farms in Tamil Nadu.
The GRAND MALLU WEDDING

This advertisement by Suresh Kumar MP, announcing his wedding, was published in Malayala Manorama in 1985. It is noteworthy that he didn't even care to bring out an invitation card. In this era, when Keralites spend lakhs of rupees on wedding sari and photo sessions, can such a situation be even considered?
MASTER AT WORK

G Aravindan shoots ‘Marattam’ in 1988. Malayalam cinema has glided to the days of drone cameras but maestros and their oeuvre stand tall.
STAGING CULTURE

Everyone associates Kerala culture with Kathakali, Koodiyattam and other forms of classical theater. However, the art forms are limited to temple festivals and school/college art festivals. A school student performs at a state-level youth festival venue.
WELLNESS TOURISM

Ayurveda has suddenly become popular again. People from around the world flock to Kerala to experience the rejuvenating therapies passed on from generation to generation. The treatment has become expensive in the process, with healing centers doubling up as resorts.
BREAKING WAVES

Kerala’s famed snake boat race presents a unique picture-postcard event. The fun-filled regatta is taken too seriously by the participating teams and their loyal fans, who make it a point to return to their backwater roots to cheer their teams and celebrate the event.
HALF A TIGER

Every Onam hordes of tigers and jaguars descend on Thrissur. Potbellied men are much in demand, because their girths offer a larger canvas to draw in the ferocious cat faces. This curious tradition goes back 200 years, historians testify.
ARTERIES OF COMMERCE

Long long ago, lakes and canals were the lifelines of Kerala. Houseboats carried rice bags and other cargo across the length and breadth of the state. As more land was reclaimed and road transport became dominant, houseboats were transformed to tourist attractions. A more justifiable term these days would be floating palaces.
PAINTING THE SKY

The mother of all Poorams unfurl in Thrissur. The fireworks that last all night lure in visitors from all over the world. Pooram afficionados make it a point to come home to offer themselves the visual extravaganza and catch up friends.
SARTORIAL LOYALTY

Fashion-conscious Malayalis respond to every trend on the globe but they have never really moved on from the good old ‘mundu’ and ‘kasavu sari’. Men go out in style in mundu at least twice a year during Onam and Kerala Piravi. Women drape the sari more often and kasavu is an essential wardrobe item.
THE ABANDONED KITCHEN

The kitchen essentials from a bygone era. A recreation of a kitchen from a generation ago, as arranged at a museum run by the Kerala Tourism Department in Thiruvananthapuram. If you have heard your father reminiscing the taste of the chutney made by his mother, you are actually looking at the keystone to that mystery recipe.
TEMPLE OF TECHNOLOGY

Technopark Thiruvananthapuram has been standing tall for 25 years as the beacon of Kerala’s achievements in information technology. The tech park introduced a different culture to the state, which was already known as the state that unleashed thousands of professionals across the world.
DUEL OF THE DAY

Televised debates have become staple diet in Kerala’s public space. If the news channels cannot provide enough entertainment quotient, audience switch to sops, comedy shows and reality shows. A television blackout would be the worst nightmare of an average Malayali.
THE BEST BIRIYANI

No trip to Kozhikode is complete without relishing the nuances of the famed Malabar biriyani. The aromatic explosion of the signature dish has spread to different parts of Kerala and even outside the state. Oh, how can you forget 'aluva' the sweetmeat that also makes Kozhikode famous.
TOXIC RAIN

Several villages of Kasaragod district are still bearing the scars of an outrageous agricultural practice. When the cashew plantations of the border districts were sprayed aerially with endosulfan, the deadly pesticide found its way to the groundwater. Babies were born with horrible defects. Endosulfan has since been banned but more dangerous chemicals are allowed to contaminate our food chain.
THE FADING GREENS

Keralites don't seem to be so keen on protecting the evergreen fauna of this land. The once common shrubs such as the 'Mashithandu' have attained a namesake status.
CHEWING ON MEMORIES

An evening gossip session in progress, accompanied by the traditional triumvirate of tobacco, lime and arecanut on a betel leaf. The ancient practice is gradually giving way to more potent mixes available in pan shops dotting every street in Kerala.
ELEPHANTINE EXCITEMENT

If there is anything more dangerous than the caparisoned elephants on a festival ground, it is the fireworks. Yet the people of Kerala cannot live without both.
DOG DAYS

Samuel the dogcatcher at work. Professionals like him are much sought after in Kerala as stray dogs suddenly tore their way to newspaper headlines. Not a day goes by without a horrific stray attack reported. Victims are reacting with equal force against the dogs and the animal rights activists who lobby against the culling.
OVER A CUP OF COFFEE

The Indian Coffee House at Shankumugham in its glorious days. The dream destination on the beach near Thiruvananthapuram is taking a hit as denizens seek a little more than the masala dosa with the signature purple filling. Eating out is a must at least on weekends and eateries have mushroomed offering everything from Malabar to Arabian and Chinese to Continental.
THE POROTTA SYNDROME

Porotta’s conquering of the Kerala palette is a saga without parallel. The layered delicacy has become more common than the modest and more healthy items such as 'puttu' and 'idli'. Laborers swear by it because it keeps hunger at bay through half a day at least. Foodies seek it out so much that 'Kerala porotta' has become the signature dish of Kerala cuisine outside the state. At the same time, the popular food is blamed for the shocking increase in lifestyle diseases.
SLICE OF LIFE

When farms were larger and muscles stronger. Agrarian economy’s descent started in Kerala long ago. Farmers have mostly abandoned agriculture in favor of more lucrative enterprises. Even the transition from bullocks to tractors has not helped.
NOT IN CURRENCY

Once valued, these coins have become a collector’s item. The extinction of coins is in proportion to inflation rate. The little 5 paise coin was the first one to bow out. His big brothers followed suit one by one. It did not even take a generation to complete the process.
GENIE IN A BOOK

Ahead of the opening of the Central Library at Mananchira in Kozhikode, KSIDC managing director Amitabh Kanth, who is also the chairman of the library managing committee, browses through the book collection along with wife Ranjitha. Libraries have since become quieter even though book sales are rising.
FRAME THE STAR

Everyone wants a slice of their favorite star. People do not see through their eyes any more. The new-age cyborgs need any visual to be processed through their mobile phone camera first. Selfie was not even a word then.
CYCLE OF CHANGE

A middle-class family in Kerala can’t live without a car, or at least a motorcycle. The ordinary bicycle is extinct. The affluent urbania has turned instead to higher-priced fancy bicycles to stay in shape.
THE STATE CARRIER

The Kerala State Road Transport Corporation has been taking Keralites places for 55 years. The people have reciprocated. The state-run corporation may be in a financial crunch, but people still wait for it on numerous routes in Kerala.
YOU BUY IT?

Advertisements have become a part of our media experience. They were viewed with a steady dose of skepticism in their initial days. Today’s consumers have a hard time choosing the wheat from the chaff as astroturfing and other trends catch on. On the other hand, advertisers have devised means to communicate to the consumers in personal matter-of-fact terms.
OLD HABITS DIE HARD

Newspapers are on the way out across the globe but not in Kerala. Despite the advent of television channels and online media, Malayalis need the newspaper in their hands to kick off a day.
VOICES FROM THE AIR

The All India Radio kept us company before television became a permanent fixture in the living rooms. The radio culture was revived by a slew of FM stations which captured the imagination of the audience with a steady mix of fact and fun.
PICKLED IN TIME

An artifact at the Padmanabhapuram Palace. The jar was used to pickle mangoes in brine. The massive jars have gone away but the taste lingers. Mango pickle is still savored with a grimace and nostalgia by all Malayalis.
ILL OMENS

Diseases have suddenly become a talking point in Kerala. From common cold to cancer, diseases are everywhere. Even laymen discuss diseases with strange names. Hospitals are crowded everywhere. Healthcare is big business.
BUILT ON NOSTALGIA

There was a time when families could not wait to raze their ancestral house with an open inner courtyard and build up monstrous houses which jutted out of nowhere. The tide has turned. Architects are faced with demands for an inner courtyard all the time. Tradition is back in currency.
IN POLITICS WE TRUST

Malayalis’ obsession with politics goes back a long way. The political landscape has changed. The equations have been redrawn as new entrants jostle with space with the conventional parties. Whatever be the color of the flag, the people of Kerala are united in their obsession with politics.
FUTURE OF TECHNOLOGY

Children are born into technology. They are not intimidated by the smartphones the way their parents were. Generations change from iPhone to iPhone. Tomorrow’s flagbearers of technology are already in the works.